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Watches

From the beginning of time, it has been important for man to know what time it is. Although we know the sun rises and sets on a regular schedule, increments of time have come to determine our daily lifestyles. The caveman used a pointed stick and a circle of rocks as a crude sundial. Generations have followed with equally rudimentary devices which have become increasingly intricate. These include knotted ropes, hour glasses, water clocks, notched candles, candle clocks and clock lamps. Finally, mechanical clocks that were driven by wheels and weights made their first appearance during the Middle Ages. These were made more accurate when Galileo discovered the pendulum principle. A locksmith by the name of Peter Henlein then invented the coiled mainspring around the year 1500 and used it in the first clocks that were portable.

In 1571, Queen Elizabeth I was presented with the first wristwatch. Unfortunately, the time it kept was atrocious. Craftsman from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries made the watch a work of art by improving its efficiency. Modern technology has brought the accuracy and beauty to a peak.

Reasons to Buy a Watch

It's practical - Today, watches not only tell you the time but they will remind you of appointments, tell the day, date and even the time in other time zones. You can do your math, monitor your heartbeat and let you watch T.V.

It's fashionable - Currently, watch styles reflect and define the times. They come in ultra-thin dress styles to bold sports chronographs.

It's prestigious - Some watches carry the tradition and grace of names that are recognized around the world. They signify the highest elegance in jewelry and timepieces.

It's a potential heirloom - Your watch can potentially be an investment in value and beauty. There are certain gold and diamond watches that, over time, even increase in value. Observe the prices some prestigious timepieces obtain at famous auction houses.

It's priced to fit your wallet - Whatever your price range or need, there is a watch for you. If you enjoy changing your watch to fit your activity, fashionable yet inexpensive and highly accurate watches are available.

Types of watches

Mechanical - These are traditional 'wind-up' watches. These types of watches don't need batteries because thy have a mainspring inside the watch which the user winds by twisting the crown on the side of the watch. The spring gradually unwinds and turns the tiny interlocking wheels that move the watch hands to measure the hours, minutes and seconds. All mechanical watches are analog which simply means they have 'hands' to tell the time.

Quartz Analogs - The 'hands' on these watches are moved by the electronic impulses passing from the battery through the quartz crystal to a step motor which moves the hands.

Automatic or Self-Winding - These watches wind themselves as the wearer moves their wrist. The wearer's arm actions cause a weight inside behind the movement to rotate, which winds the mainspring. They can also be wound manually.

Digital - These watches display the time with digits or numbers as opposed to 'hands'. All digital watches are electronic and the numbers are created by either diodes that emit light (LED) or liquid crystal displays (LCD).

Quartz watches are typically more accurate than mechanical watches. One of the reasons for this is mechanical watches have many moving parts. This means there is more friction and there is less accuracy as the parts interact. Quartz analog watches have far fewer moving parts than mechanical watches. Digital watches have no moving parts. The second reason is the quartz crystal's constant and amazingly frequent vibrations per second. This enables these watches to measure the second with incredible accuracy. These watches only need a new battery every 18 to 24 months. There are batteries available that will allow your watch to operate for up to 5 years.

Proper Care of Your Timepiece

Mechanical watches should be checked regularly and serviced by your jeweler according to the suggestions of the manufacturer. This is important because tiny particles of dust can get into it thereby increasing friction of the moving parts.

Wind your watch in a clockwise direction preferably about the same time each day. The watch should be removed from your wrist as to not place undue pressure on the stem.

While many watches are equipped with shock-resistent devices, it isn't wise to subject them to overly vigorous treatment.

Replace broken or scratched crystals immediately. Even if there is a hairline crack, dust or moisture can get into the mechanism thereby threatening the accuracy.

Unless the degree of water-resistance was clearly specified when you bought your timepiece, don't take the risk of wearing it into the pool or shower or even on a moist wrist.

No matter how handy you think you are, don't attempt 'do it yourself' repairs. Only an expert should be trusted to put your watch back to working condition should there be a problem.

It's best to replace a batter in a quartz watch before it runs out. Dead batteries that are left in the watch can leak or corrode and ruin it. Also, don't attempt to change the batteries yourself. Take it to a jeweler. The cost to take your watch to a jeweler for a battery replacement are inexpensive. The time and few dollars it takes to perform this task will likely keep your watch operating for many years.

Watch Terminology

Watches are technological wonders. They have so many working parts that understanding the technology and the terminology will help you find the perfect watch for you and your budget. Use the terminology guide below and, for a complete watch glossary.

Bezel - The ring that surrounds the watch face, holding the glass covering, or crystal, in place. It can be stationary or rotating or have special functions, like indicating minutes on a diving watch.

Case - The housing of the watch's movement. Watch cases are made from a wide variety of materials, including precious metals (karat gold, platinum, silver) brass, steel, titanium ceramic and durable plastic. With metal alloy cases, look for the identifying stamp on the case back.

Chronograph - A stopwatch that measures continuous or discontinuous intervals of time. The chronograph can be started, stopped and reset at will by way of push buttons. When used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch face, chronographs can perform many different functions like calculating speeds, distances and altitudes.

Chronometer - A chronometer is a movement that has received a certificate after passing a series of stringent tests that prove it can measure time precisely under various conditions. The most renowned official testing organization for chronometers is the Swiss C.O.S.C. or Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres.

Crown - The knob outside the case used to adjust time and to wind a mechanical watch.

Crystal - The transparent covering that protects a watch's face. Watch crystals are made of different materials - the most common being acrylic, mineral and synthetic sapphire. Acrylic crystals are the least expensive and are composed of a lightweight hardened plastic. Mineral crystals are made from a variety of different minerals that are processed to produce a very hard and clear material suitable for watches. The most expensive and durable crystal is made of synthetic sapphire. Grown in a laboratory, synthetic sapphire crystals are incredibly hard (9.0 on the Mohs Hardness Scale) are shock resistant and scratch proof. You'll find synthetic sapphire crystal on the finest watches made today.

Guilloche - An engraving technique on the dial of the watch, in which a very precise, intricate, repetitive pattern or design is mechanically etched into an underlying material with very fine detail.

Perpetual Calendar - A calendar that automatically adjusts for the varying lengths of months (28, 29, 30, and 31 days) and for leap years.

Shock Resistance - As defined by U.S. government regulation, a watch's ability to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto a wooden floor from a height of three feet.

Tachometer / Tachymeter - A scale, usually located on or near the bezel of the watch, that measures the speed at which the wearer has traveled over a measured distance.

Water Resistance - A watch's ability to withstand water pressure to a stated depth. Watches marked as "water resistant" without a depth indication are designed to withstand splashes of water only. Watches with high levels of water resistance will reflect this by stating the number of meters the watch is registrant to (usually between 50-2000 meters) on the dial or back of the case. This resistance is indicated in ATM, or atmospheres, which is a unit of measure for pressure. A smart shopper will match their needs and personal wearing habits to the right level of water resistance.

Selecting the Right Watch

Selecting a watch, like selecting any piece of fine jewelry, should be based on personal taste. Men and women make a definite statement by the watch they choose - sporty, dressy, techie, tailored or sophisticated. When shopping with Ayres consider the following factors:

Metals - The metal used in a timepiece will affect its wear and the price. Gold is softer than the steel and may scratch in very rugged conditions. It is, however, a metal of choice for fine watch making, as it offers old-world elegance.

Platinum, too, is often used by prestige brands, as it is the rarest and hardest of all precious metals. Stainless steel and titanium are durable materials that work well on sportier watches.

Variable Cost Considerations - The price of a watch isn't always contingent strictly upon the materials used for the case, bracelet or crystal. If it's a mechanical or complicated timepiece that offers additional functions and can have as many as 600 or more individual parts, the price is significantly higher due to the complexity of the movement.

Price is also varied by a watch's features, which can make it more valuable and thus more expensive. These include diamond bezels or gemstone markers; world renowned brands that have established reputations over the centuries for elegance and quality; or fine watches designed and crated by highly trained artisans that are works of art.

Special Features - Many watches have more to offer than just tracking the time of day, which can affect the timepiece's price. Watches can act as stopwatches, calendars, alarms, and / or track multiple time zones. They can also offer fashion flair with gemstone touches or luxurious straps and bracelets.

Warranties and Repairs - Every watch manufacturer offers a warranty on its timepieces. A professional jeweler should be able to explain the warranties available. Typically, the warranty is for one year, but some companies offer several years or offer extended warranties.

Make sure the watch comes with its original packaging, box and documents. Get a detailed, itemized receipt.

Ask Ayres about the after-sale support of the brand and the retailer. Ask how the watch will be repaired if it becomes necessary. Find out if there are repair facilities on site or a professional watchmaker on staff. In addition, check if the brand has a U.S. service center.

Care and Cleaning

  • Read the manufacturer's instructions and warranty information carefully.
  • Only an expert jeweler or watchmaker should be trusted to repair your watch.
  • Oils from your skin can build up on a watch. If your watch is water resistant, clean it with a damp cloth and a mixture of warm water and mild soap. For watches with non-metal straps, consult your professional jeweler on how to clean.
  • Wind your watch in a clockwise direction about the same time each day. The watch should be removed from your wrist when winding.
  • Although many watches are equipped with shock resistant devices, it's not wise to subject it to overly vigorous treatment.
  • Replace broken or scratched crystals immediately. Even a hairline crack can threaten the timekeeping mechanism's accuracy.
  • Unless the degree of water resistance is clearly specified when you purchase your watch, do not expose it to water or moisture.
  • Always ensure that locking crowns and cases are secure before immersing a water resistant watch. Be sure to wash your watch off in freshwater immediately after exposing it to saltwater.
  • Have the battery in a quartz watch replaced by Ayres before it runs out. Dead batteries left in a watch can leak or corrode, ruining the timepiece.
  • Finally, if you have any questions, ask Ayres. We can explain values to you as a customer. We are trained professionals so you can trust our expertise and judgment.

Where to Buy Your Watch

Be sure the professional jeweler or watch dealer you're purchasing from is authorized to sell the brand. This is especially true in the case of high-end luxury watches, as the watchmaker does not always consider the watch warranty or guarantee valid if the dealer is not authorized.

While you can find timepiece in may types of stores, to ensure you love the watch you purchase for years to come, follow a simple rule; buy from a professional jeweler, someone you can trust. Choose a retailer who has demonstrated a commitment to professionalism and has established a reputation.

Ask if the jeweler is a member of the Jewelers of America (JA), the national association for professionals serving fine jewelry retail marketplace. JA jewelers make building your fine timepiece and jewelry wardrobe easy and fun with their knowledge and wide selection. Their commitment to customer service ensures that they will be there for your future purchases, repairs or custom design needs.

 

   
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